Το τυρί της τρύπας!

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Τον βλέπεις στο βάθος να ξεχωρίζει. Είναι περήφανος για την καταγωγή του. Είναι περήφανος για τα τυριά του!
Ντυμένος με τα παραδοσιακά ρούχα των Κρητικών, με τα στιβάνια και το μαντήλι.

Ο κυρ Μιχάλης δηλώνει βοσκός και τυροκόμος. Μία παράδοση που κρατάει τριάντα χρόνια και πέρασε από πατέρα σε γιο.
Όταν τον πλησιάζεις σε υποδέχεται με ύφος λεβέντικο και σου μιλάει σε αυθεντική κρητική διάλεκτο. «Γεια σου κοπελιά! Ίντα κάνεις;»

Πιάνουμε την κουβέντα, καθώς κόβει ένα γενναίο κομμάτι κεφαλογραβιέρα με το κρητικό μαχαίρι του για να συνοδέψουμε τη ρακή.

Λατρεύει τη μουσική και το χωριό του την Κάλυβο, ένα γραφικό κρητικό χωριό σκαρφαλωμένο στον Ψηλορείτη, μια γειτονιά με τα Ανώγεια και τα Ζωνιανά. Εκεί όλα μοιάζουν κι όλα είναι διαφορετικά! Οι άνθρωποι ζεστοί και φιλόξενοι, μονίμως μ’ ένα κάλεσμα στα χείλη: «Έλα κουμπάρε!! Έλα να πιούμε μια ρακή!!»

Καθόμαστε στην αυλή σ’ ένα τετράγωνο ξύλινο τραπέζι καφενείου με τις χαρακτηριστικές ψάθινες καρέκλες. Παντού γλάστρες με λουλούδια! Μοσχοβολάει ο τόπος!

«Επαέ μεγάλωσα. Εγώ, τρία κοπέλια και μια κοπελιά. Ο πατέρας μου ήτονε βοσκός. Είχε γίδια και πρόβατα. Σήμερα τα’ χουμε κάμει περισσότερα. Όλα τα τυριά μας γίνονται από γάλα που παίρνουμε από τα δικά μας ζωντανά. Βγάζουμε τυρί, καλό τυρί! Εβδομήντα τα εκατό πρόβειο και τριάντα τα εκατό γίδινο. Φτιάχνουμε κεφαλογραβιέρα, φέτα ΑΑ, ανθότυρο σκληρό, φρέσκια μυζήθρα. Το περισσότερο το δίνω εδώ στην Κρήτη. Στην Αθήνα κατεβάζω μόνο κεφαλογραβιέρα. Πηγαίνω τακτικά σε εκθέσεις και φεστιβάλ: στο Σύνταγμα, στο Ζάππειο, στο Νέο Ηράκλειο, παντού! Στην Αθήνα θα με βρεις όπου γίνεται εκδήλωση με παραδοσιακά προϊόντα.

Εμείς κοπελιά, φτιάχνουμε το «τυρί της τρύπας». Φτιάχνουμε το τυρί με φυσική πητιά και όταν είναι ο καιρός της ωρίμανσης, το τοποθετούμε στη σπηλιά πάνω σε ξύλινες τάβλες. Η σπηλιά βρίσκεται στα κτήματα που έχομε πάνω στο βουνό και είναι υγειονομικά ελεγμένη. Έχει σταθερή θερμοκρασία, 9,5ο C και την κατάλληλη υγρασία και αφήνουμε το τυρί εφτά, έντεκα ή δεκατέσσερεις μήνες να ωριμάσει φυσικά.»

Με την κουβέντα πέρασε η ώρα, τελείωσε και η ρακή. Σουρούπωνε… Ξεκινήσαμε για το μιτάτο. Εκεί είναι η μάντρα, τα εργαλεία κι όλα τα μηχανήματα για την τυροκόμηση.

Μόλις φτάσαμε, καλησπέρισε τη Μαγδάλω, την Πηνελόπη, τη Μαριώ και ξεκίνησε το άρμεγμα. Όλα έχουν τη σειρά τους, το χρόνο τους. Είναι ιεροτελεστία!

Τα τυριά του κυρ Μιχάλη είναι μοναδικά! Και πώς να μην είναι άλλωστε; Τα ζωντανά του βόσκουν ελεύθερα και η τροφή τους είναι ποτισμένη με τα αρώματα της Κρήτης και το ιώδιο της θάλασσας. Αυτός είναι ο λόγος που τα προϊόντα που γίνονται από το γάλα, αλλά και το κρέας, είναι τόσο νόστιμα και θρεπτικά!

Ο παραδοσιακός τρόπος παρασκευής τους, το μεράκι και η αγάπη των παραγωγών τα κάνουν ξεχωριστά, ΜΟΝΑΔΙΚΑ!

Κάθε κομμάτι που βάζουμε στο τραπέζι μας έχει και μία δόση από την αγάπη και το μεράκι των ανθρώπων που ακόμα παράγουν παραδοσιακά!

Τον περίμενα υπομονετικά στο μετόχι. Τελείωσε τις δουλειές του και με κατέβασε στη χώρα. Άλλες εικόνες… Άλλη αίσθηση…

Σκεφτόμουν τις ώρες που πέρασα στη φύση πλάι σε αυθεντικούς ανθρώπους κι ευχόμουν να ήταν περισσότερες.

Αυτά είναι λοιπόν «Τα καλά κεφάλια του Ψηλορείτη» του Μιχάλη Λυρώνη.

Του ζήτησα, αντί για αποχαιρετισμό, να μου πει μια δική του μαντινάδα. «Θα σου πω μια για τον τόπο μου!

Εμείς στο Μυλοπόταμο είμαστε άλλη φάρα,
γιατί εμεγαλώσαμε σ’ τσαυγής την κατσιφάρα.»
(κατσιφάρα = ομίχλη)

Αναστασία Καδρέβη έχει ιδρύσει και διευθύνει την εταιρεία Greek Soil Choices προκειμένου να γνωρίσουμε τα ελληνικά προϊόντα και να βάλουμε στις καθημερινές μας συνήθειες την ποιότητά τους και τη θρεπτικότητά τους.

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